2011 Thor Motocross Flux Review

Executive summary about thor motocross by Adam Waheed

For the 2011 motorcycle riding season, motocross and off-road motorcycle gear manufacturer, Thor, continues to offer its hybrid Flux riding gear. In addition to the updated colorways, the pants, jersey and gloves have been modified slightly to fit a broader range of rider body types.

1. Flux Pant

Thor Motocross Flux Lazer Pants continue to be constructed from a 900D poly oxford material with perforation throughout the hip and leg regions. Ventilation panels are also neatly integrated into the thigh areas to help route cool air inside the pant. Leather inner knee panels protect the rider from the heat of the exhaust as well as hold up to the constant rubbing of the rider’s knee braces, if worn. A conventional plastic zipper and plastic ratchet-style waist buckle fastens the pants to the rider and pants fit true-to-size at the waist.

2. Flux Jersey

Thor Motocross Flux Lazer Jersey is made from a lightweight mesh fabric comparable to an athletic jersey.

3. Flux Gloves

Thor Motocross Flux Lazer Gloves is a constructed from a breathable mesh fabric.

Fit of the pant, jersey and glove is slightly larger as compared to the original stuff. Likewise the jersey is roomier throughout the chest, stomach and arms.

Pant MSRP : $169.95

Jersey MSRP : $54.95

Glove MSRP : $29.95

Bell Helmets Will Be Sold In Mass Market

Executive summary about Bell Helmets by Steve Frothingham and Jason Krantz

In a major Policy shift Bell Sports will soon begin selling lower-priced, Bell-brand helmets through mass merchant outlets like WalMart Toys R Us. While Bell has long sold its BSI brand to discounters, it has reserved the Bell name for specialty retailers. Bell executives are bracing for an angry reaction.

To stem that anger, Bell is developing a new line of helmets strictly for the specialty retail channel, calling it the Bell Pro Series, also will sell the lower-priced Bell and BSI helmets in addition to the Bell Pro Series to specialty retailers, will offer retailers its lowest volume price on BSI models, even for those who buy in small quantities.

In the past, some retailers have asked to carry the BSI line, but Bell reserved it for mass merchant sales only. Bell will continue to use specialty retailers to introduce new, value-added technology through its Bell Pro Series.

Big 5 has Bell Sports stuff. Bell's decision reflects what is increasingly becoming a commodity-driven market. Mass merchants are demanding brand names instead of off-brands. Giro also has sold lower price-point helmets through mass merchant outlets. "The helmet market is becoming a commodity market and it's dependent upon volume," Tobin said.

Bell helmet sales, like others in the industry, have been stagnant. Although Lee said his company is avoiding a head-to-head price war with suppliers like Headstrong, Bell is continuing to offer its mass merchant customers BSI helmets that wholesale for less than $10 per helmet.

Its new Bell-branded mass merchant line will start at $30 and is being positioned as a high-end mass merchant product. The $8 million campaign is Bell's largest.

Bell's other brands, Rhode Gear, Blackburn and Vistalite, will continue to be sold through specialty retailers only.

Maximum Protection and Comfort With Bell Helmets

Executive summary about Bell Helmets by Athena McDonald

There are just some people who do not like wearing helmets. There are various brands of helmets in the market today. One specific brand of a helmet is the Bell Helmets. Athletes and champions from Grand Prix, X Games, Moto X and other racing contests choose helmets among all brands. Bell Helmets has played an important role in protecting athletes, both men and women. This brand makes helmets for different kinds of sports. Each helmet made by Bell has a specific design. Bell Helmets are truly one of a kind, not only used for competitions, really looks luxurious and cool. You can have a bell helmet for spending about $60 to $500.

Preparing Dirt Bike Plastics and Applying Motocross Graphics

So you've got a shiny new motocross graphics kit. Before applying your motocross graphics kit your dirt bike plastics do need to be in a reasonable condition. If there is still sticker residue on your plastics you can remove it with contact cleaner.

Once the residue's removed get some hot soapy water and scrub your dirt bike plastics like they've never been scrubbed before! Now the tricky bit, this will be a lot easier with two sets of hands so try to get someone to help you. With your heat gun first warm your dirt bike plastics up particularly if it's cold where you're working. With a large sticker like a radiator shroud, peel back a small section from the leading edge and fold the backing flat underneath. Now you can stick just the small section to the shroud and lay the sticker flat against the shroud to make sure everything lines up.

If it all looks good peel back a little more of the backing and keep working your way along making sure to squeeze out any air bubbles. Apply a bit of heat as you go, this softens the sticker and makes it easier to stick on curved sections of your plastics. Once the whole sticker is applied, squeeze out any air bubbles and give it a good rub down with a rag while applying a bit more heat, this makes sure it has stuck well. If you find at any point that you have an air bubble that you can't squeeze to the edge, just prick it with a pin and get rid of the air that way.

I once had some motocross graphics made by a guy whose favourite method of applying stickers was to get a spray bottle filled with some soapy water and lightly spray the surface you're applying the sticker to. He would then peel the backing off the sticker completely and put the sticker on. The soapy water is supposed to allow you to slide the sticker into position and then you squeegee the water out from underneath and let it dry.

A new set of dirt bike plastics and some motocross graphics are a cheap way of making your worn bike look almost brand new.

Advice On How To Make The Most Of Your 2010 KX250F

Use MXA’s mods as a guide.

1. Throttle tube: Kawasaki vulcanizes the rubber grip to the throttle body, so it takes the patience of a saint to completely remove the grip. We pitched the throttle tube/grip assembly and installed a $59.95 Sunline aluminum throttle tube. The metal tube is very durable and won’t grenade in the event of a crash.

2. Gearing: Kawasaki missed the boat with the KX250F gearing. In stock trim, the 48-tooth rear sprocket is too tall for all but expert riders. We opted for a Renthal 49-tooth rear sprocket in order to bridge the wide gaps between gears. While at it, we installed a Renthal standard-tooth countershaft sprocket and R1 Works chain.

3. Chain guide: Just like a wood chipper, the chain chews up the lower chain guide on the KX250F. The culprit is the chain guide itself, which doesn’t provide enough clearance for the rear sprocket. We utilized a flashy green T.M. Designworks chain guide.

4. Graphics: The stock KX250F graphics aren’t made out of rice paper, but they might as well be. The life span of the bland-looking stock graphics is as short as a mayfly’s. After a mere few hours of riding, we slapped on the very attractive DeCal Works T-7 semi-custom graphics kit.

5. Exhaust pipe: Does the 2010 KX250F really need an aftermarket exhaust system? No. We chose the $264.95 Pro Circuit T-4 exhaust for two reasons. It improves mid-to-top power and is quieter than the stock exhaust pipe from 5000 rpm on up. Call Pro Circuit at (951) 738-8050.

6. Rear axle nut: Cotter pins are a cheap and advantageous way to keep a bolt from backing out. With that said, the cotter pin found on the KX250F’s rear axle is a nuisance. We round-filed the cotter pin, removed the stock 32mm axle nut and replaced it with a self-locking Honda CRF250 nut. Problem solved.

7. Plastics: Every year, the KX250F is saddled with frail plastic. After just a few rides, we obliterated the radiator shrouds and bent the side panels. Instead of replacing the body work with stock plastic, we used more durable UFO plastic. The UFO kit comes with the front and rear fender, shrouds and side panels.

2010 Kawasaki KX250F Review

Executive summary about the 2010 KX250F by Jeff Buchanan

The new piston has a shorter skirt and narrower piston pin to reduce reciprocating mass, resulting in a quicker revving motor. The piston’s crown has been reshaped, adding 0.6mm in height to improve combustion with the cylinder height increased slightly to maintain a 13.2:1 compression ratio.

A new exhaust pipe – made from stainless steel for increased durability – is comprised of a longer head pipe married to a shorter mid-section to boost low-rpm performance. The technicians at Kawasaki boast that they’ve gotten the KX’s crankshaft balance closer to that of the factory racers, resulting in less vibration, which translates into smoother throttle response.

The 250 gets larger, wider radiators with a fin pitch designed to accumulate less mud. The increased rigidity of the new radiators allows the reinforcing brackets and support stays to be removed, resulting in reduced overall radiator weight.

By reducing the size of the steering stem – from 24mm to 23mm – rigidity is reduced, theoretically giving the bike a slightly lighter feel in handling. As for the basic numbers, seat height is 37.6 inches. Showa twin-chamber forks have titanium-coated lower tubes that reduce friction for smoother response. The 16-way compression and rebound damping adjustments augment 12.4 inches of fork travel. The damping settings are new, with less forward lean that lends more balance in the bike’s front to rear attitude. The rear shock possesses 13-way low-speed and stepless high-speed compression damping with 17-position rebound damping and fully adjustable spring preload, providing 12.2 inches of rear wheel travel.

Adding to the durability factor, the KX250F is fitted with a resin skid plate, rear brake caliper guard and longer-wearing chain guide. Black triple clamps paired with black alumite-coated wheels and Renthal aluminum bars help the production KX to closely mirror the factory race machines.

We enlisted the services of Intermediate-level racer Parker Jones to flog the Kawasaki around the private Castillo Ranch Motocross track in Central California. At 16 years-old, Jones stands 5-foot-11-inches tall and weighs 165 pounds.

Parker was pleasantly surprised by the KX’s power and tracktability that required him to shift his weight forward on the uphill section to keep the front end on the ground.

As for cornering, Parker said the bike worked equally well whether railing a berm or taking the point-and-shoot approach to a corner. The bike responded well to rider input, going where the rider wants it to without a fight.

Although the rear brake worked decently, Jones commented on squeaking noises on corner entry. The 2010 Kawasaki KX250F is a more refined, focused, and durable machine from its worthy predecessor.

Chain Replacement

So your chain needs to be replaced? What you’ll need:

1. Chain Rivet Tool

2. Hammer

3. Drift

4. Grinder

5. Chain Breaker Tool

If you replace your chain before its completely worn out, you're sprockets should be just fine. The old rule of thumb is two chains to one set of sprockets. Most of the bikes I see that are in need of a new chain have about 20-30k miles on the clock. Very rarely will your OEM sprockets be worn in that time. The only exception is aluminum sprockets, they should always be replaced with the chain because the aluminum wears much faster than the traditional steel sprocket, but I digress.

Chain breakers say that you can just install and twist and the chain will come apart. But that only really works on smaller chains. I've watched many chain breakers crumble when they are used to break a 530, 525 or even a 520 chain. Modern chains are so strong they don't come apart that easy.

You'll want to push the pins out the back of the chain. Grinding off the face of a link removes the ‘staked' portion of the pins making it easier for you to push the pins out. Once the old link is removed, the old chain can come off. Be sure the bike is in neutral and just pull the chain out and throw it into the garbage. Removing the countershaft cover is a good chance to inspect your front sprocket. The smaller front sprocket will wear faster than the larger rear sprocket.

Measure four times before you cut. If you cut the chain too short, you're up the proverbial creek and out the price of a new chain. If you are a wise chain shopper, you purchased a chain with a rivet style master link instead of the traditional, clip-style master link. Your master link most likely came with the link, four little o-rings and a packet of yellow lubricant. Then slide the link into the chain from the back. You don't want to press the link together too tightly! If you do, you're master link will bind. Your chain rivet tool will have a special pin that has a concave dimple in the end. You probably noticed that the pins on the master link rivet have little recessed dimples punched into them.

In the same way you pressed the chain together, you want to press on the lip of the link pins so that the tool pins mushrooms it. Too much force will, again, bind the link or damage the master link all together. Last, you'll want to adjust your chain according to your bikes manual, and lube the chain lightly. On O-ring chains, your lube provides cushion between the sprockets and the chain and protects the o-rings from o-zone, UV rays and other stuff. Also remember to lube your chain about every 500 miles or so, and to clean your chain with kerosene every 3000 miles or so for maximum chain life.

Once you are done, you'll have a brand new chain, stronger than the chain that came with the bike.

Dirt Bike Axle and Chain Adjustment

Executive summary about motorcycle Axle and chains by JC Hilderbrand

Installation Steps:

1. Axle prep

Once the wheel is ready to be re-attached to the bike, before inserting the axle, make sure that it is properly prepared. The axle should be cleaned of any grime and then coated with a fresh layer of grease. Most bearing grease will do. Force the wheel up tight against the adjustment bolts and tighten the axle nut enough to hold the wheel in place, but do not cinch it down.

2. Adjust the chain

Loosen the lock nut on the chain tensioner on each side of the swingarm. Once loose, thread the adjustment bolts in or out to reach the desired chain slack (out to tighten the chain, in to loosen it). Use the marks on the axle blocks to make sure both sides are equally adjusted and the wheel is square. Everyone has a favorite tip for the proper chain adjustment. We try to leave enough slack so that the chain is tight when the suspension is fully compressed.

3. Tighten the axle

Once you are satisfied with the chain tension, put a rag between the chain and sprocket on the top side of the swingarm. Rotate the wheel backwards to cram the rag between the chain and sprocket which forces the wheel tight against the tensioning bolts. Use a torque wrench to tighten the axle nut to the specified tension, lube the chain and go ride.

Fox Motocross Gear

Fox Racing is the most recognized and best selling brand of motocross apparel in the world today. For three decades Fox Racing has created the best motocross apparel in the world, which is able to withstand the elements and the torturous racing conditions that are a major part of motocross.

Fox Racing first opened for business in 1974, when Geoff Fox, a Ph. D. who taught physics at the University of Santa Clara, launched Moto- X Fox, a tiny distribution business for European motocross bikes in a 1,500-square foot building in Campbell, California. In the spring of 1977, determined to show the American motocross public that his products were superior to those of the competition, Fox created his own privately-owned professional motocross team, Team Moto-X Fox. Handmade by Fox, the clothing became an instant hit with the fans and interested enthusiasts started calling the Fox shop in Campbell inquiring about its availability. In 1980, Fox Racing rider Mark Barnett won the company's first National Championship, and two years later, Brad Lackey won Fox Racing's first World Motocross Championship. In the ensuing two-plus decades, Fox Racing-sponsored riders have won over 30 National Motocross and Supercross Championships. Today, Fox Racing remains a family owned and operated business, with all four of Geoff and Josie Fox's children working full-time at the company. During the last three decades, Fox Racing has become an international leader in the sportswear apparel industry with its famous Fox Head logo seen worldwide. In doing so, Fox Racing has held steadfast to Geoff Fox's original goal of making the best motocross products money can buy. Constant research, development, and fine-tuning goes into Fox Racing race apparel and performance gear.

Dirt Bike Racing

Executive summary about Dirt Bike Racing by Chuck Kent

Chances are, even if you live in a city or suburb, there are some good dirt bike courses within reasonable driving distance - which explains why I see so many people living in suburban areas with dirt bikes in their garage. Dirt bike racing is probably one of the most fun things you can do on a Saturday afternoon.

The last thing you'll want to do is make sure you have the right dirt bike riding gear.

First Time Dirt Bike Riding Tips

If you’ve chosen the right size bike, your feet should just be able to touch the ground. A dirt bike seat has a natural indentation where the seat meets the gas tank. If you are too far behind your feet, you will need to slide forward and pull on the handlebars.

The proper seated position will affect all aspects of your riding, especially turns. OK, I will stop talking about the seating position if you promise to CONSTANTLY remind yourself to move forward. Deal?

If you are used to a street bike, riding a dirt bike will be a bit disconcerting at first because the ground is irregular and the bike will “wiggle” a bit underneath you. As for seating position - MOVE FORWARD!

If you are looking a few feet in front of your tire, you will never get smooth. You need to look well down the trail. As you are riding, without moving your head, determine if you can see your front fender using your peripheral vision. If you can, you are probably looking too close to the front of the bike.

For the rest of the day you will work on Accelerating and Braking.

ACCELERATION: Remember our discussion about SEATING POSITION? If you are seated properly, your hips should be over the foot pegs and your upper body should have a forward lean to it.

BRAKING: Guess what? In the same way that accelerating forces push you backward, braking forces will push you forward. If you are seated properly when braking, the gas tank should be between your thighs. As you begin braking, SQUEEZE the gas tank with your legs. At first, simply accelerate to 3rd or 4th gear and then brake to a stop. Remember, as you are braking you should be downshifting so that when you stop, you will be able to immediately take off again. After 10 times, you will need to begin “testing” yourself. To do this, pick out 4 points.

POINT 1: The point that you start accelerating.

POINT 2: The point you stop accelerating.

POINT 3: The point you apply the brakes.

POINT 4: The point you are stopped.

When you do this test, be sure to accelerate to approximately the same speed. You probably don’t have a speedometer, so use your gears to tell you. In other words, accelerate hard from the same spot until you shift into 3rd gear. That will give you POINT 1 and 2. Mentally mark approximately where Spots 3 and 4 are during these test runs.

Each time, try to accelerate harder and brake harder. When braking, you might lock up one or both tires. When practicing, try to “feel” when a tire is about to lock up. If you do, don’t increase brake pressure any more. Ideally, you want to be right at that point, where maximum pressure is applied but the tire is not skidding.

Another thing to remember is how the condition of the trail affects accelerating and braking. For instance, if it is real bumpy, you cannot brake as hard before you start to skid.

Some other tips:

1. Do not try to use the back brake by rotating your ankle. Physically pick up your foot off the footpeg and press down on the brake pedal.

2. Use 1 or 2 fingers only on the front brake.

3. Use both brakes simultaneously.

If you just go out and play all day, you will improve a bit, but not as much as you would if you worked on these exercises.

Taking The MSF DirtBike School

Executive summary about Dirt Bike School by Bill Kresnak

If you want to be a better street rider, learn how to ride in the dirt. So here I am, wearing all kinds of strange clothing, riding a completely unfamiliar motorcycle…and heading right toward a rock.

The rock sits precisely at the entrance to a tight righthand turn on a trail at the Honda OHV and Environmental Learning Center in Colton, California. Courses in the Motorcycle Safety Foundation's new DirtBike School are conducted at various locations around the country, but this particular class is being held at a very special facility run by Honda near Los Angeles. The students range from a 16-year-old learning the basics to older riders like myself, who want to improve their skills.

Some of the others have no background in dirt-riding. I have no trouble admitting that I need training.

DirtBike School Coach Amber Bickel warns us from the beginning that we will be dealing with "real rocks, not foam," along with sand, ruts and plenty of other challenging surfaces. Since there are no speed limits on most trails, she notes, it's considerably easier for novice riders to get in over their heads, particularly when they're riding with more-experienced companions.

You ride over your limits, especially when you get tired. Our first session on the bikes takes place in a flat field, where we practice straight-line riding and controlled starts and stops. Between riding sessions, there's more classroom discussion on a variety of subjects, including responsible trail riding.

"We need to stay on the trails and be courteous to other trail users," Bickel says, noting that many trail closures result from complaints about irresponsible riders.

"Go slow past campers and other people. And when you come across horses, turn your engine off until they go by.'' Those acts of trail courtesy will help keep riders welcome on public lands.

The idea, as in the MSF's street courses, is to simulate on the training range the challenges you'll face in the real world. Fortunately, the Honda center is equipped to give novice riders a taste of that, with a trail that winds through five distinct ecosystems. We fire up the bikes and take to the trail single file. The rock is a perfect example. I leave the Honda OHV and Environmental Learning Center convinced of two things: First, you really can become a better road rider by learning to ride in the dirt. And second, even if that weren't true, riding on the trail is so much fun I need a dirtbike in my garage.

2Pc Motorcycle Bike Hump Leather Suit Armor Orange

This leather suit comes fitted with injection molded and double density armor.

1. Pre curved sleeves with stretchable Kevlar for proper riding position.

2. Fully removable Injection-Molded Armor at knees, shoulders, and elbows.

3. Removable dual density spine protector.

4. Fixed double density hip armor.

5. Leather stretch panels at lower back and above the knees

Iron Man 2 Motorcycle Suit

“We’ve replicated the visual effect of Iron Man’s armor,” explains David Pea, owner of UD Replicas, which spent four months researching and designing the IRON MAN 2 Motorcycle Suit, incorporates removable CE-approved body armor; gloves with built-in, anti-skid Kevlar in the leather lining of the palms.

Adequate Training: the Key to Success in Motocross Racing

Executive summary about Motocross Training by Groshan Fabiola

Motocross is indeed a very demanding sport, especially on the legs, arms, and shoulders of a rider. It is strongly believed that motocross training should consist of four distinct areas: motocross fitness, together with a balanced diet, regular practice and mental preparation. Many motocross riders get off to a good start in the race but fail to finish it in top spot. The reason is undoubtedly the lack of adequate motocross fitness training.

Every rider who enters a race should be aware of the fact that good performance depends on a series of factors, including motocross fitness training, adequate nutrition, and mental preparation, as well as discipline in the recording of training sessions. Everyone interested in improving their motocross training, and subsequently their performance in the race, can try the motocross training software that, as its developers promise, will guide you along your training, keep you on track at all times, and help you become and remain a winner.

Motocross training methods to help with the dreaded arm pump

There are some things you can incorporate into your motocross training to help with forearm pump.

1. Ride regularly. Regular riding exercises and conditions the muscles in your forearms.

2. Stretch your forearms before you ride. Sit on your bike and put your hands in front of you like you're stopping traffic. Have your hands below the level of your handlebars and put the tips of your fingers against your grips. Now press against the grips, you'll feel the muscles in the underside of your forearms stretch.

3. Don't wear tight gloves. Any tight fitting gear around your wrists will restrict blood flow.

4. Exercise your forearms. Hold a squeeze ball and clench your hand and then release. Do this until your forearm starts to ache then swap hands.

5. Get your blood flowing. Before you ride go for a short brisk walk to get your blood flowing.

6. Try using smaller diameter handgrips. Use Renthal Medium Full Diamond grips. Because they don't have a waffle pattern they are easier to get your hands around particularly when you've got short fingers!

Forearm pump is a problem suffered even by the pro riders and while regular motocross training helps you will probably always suffer some degree of it. If you can, ride as much as possible, time on the bike helps with both arm pump and motocross fitness.

A Guide to the Right Cycling Jerseys

Weather plays an important role in choosing the right cycling jerseys. Choosing the right jerseys to suit your weather type will give you the best protection and comfortable rides. There are jerseys made specifically for warm weathers. Moreover, you must also choose the right color of your jerseys, to make a choice between short or long-sleeved cycling jerseys. Investing on cycling jerseys which contain reflective material is a very good idea. Usually bikers buy this type of clothing aside from their day jersey. But if you don't have a budget yet, ordinary jerseys will do along with this safety measure. Purchase a set of reflective tapes from bike merchants. Then, cut and attach them on your existing jersey.

1. Endura FS260 Pro Jetstream

It's just a really well thought out jacket, obviously refined by people who cycle, to create a fit and function that suits roadies and mountain bikers alike. Great bike cut, with shaped sleeves and dropped rear end means you won't ever feel exposed to the elements, whilst there are plenty of extra nice touches to make this our favourite winter cycling jersey: waterproof pocket, great reflectivity and it looks nice too.

2. Madison Trail Mens Sport Jersey

The quick drying, fast wicking Madison trail jersey is here because it's so darned cheap. Nice attention to detail, especially considering the price, include flat lockedstitching and reflective prints.

3. Specialized Womens Argali Wool Cycling Jersey

Seriously it combines the warmth and washable qualities of natural wool with the hydrophobic qualities of polyester to make a very nice cycling jersey indeed. Don't fret chaps, Spesh make a men’s Argali jersey too!

4. Altura Reflex Long Sleeve Cycling Jersey

The Reflex is windproof and water resistant, multi panelled and literally covered in great reflectivity.

5. Endura MT500 Jersey

Further really nice little touches include the waterproof pocket, a glasses wipe and again, a pre-shaped bike cut.

6. Bspoke Edgware Knitwear Long Sleeve Cycling Jersey

The Edware jersey uses Teflon treated merino wool to provide a water resistant jersey. The subtle bike cut and a high neck means you’ll stay very comfy on the bike.

Need Some New Motocross Goggles?

Buying a new pair of motocross goggles isn't rocket science. There's four things you need to consider when looking at motocross goggles:

1. Vision

If possible take your helmet with you when trying on some dirt bike goggles. Do the goggles give you good peripheral vision?

2. Fit

A good pair of motocross goggles should fit nicely against your face and the frame of the goggles need to fit into the eyeport of your helmet.

3. Durability

Look for finishing touches like whether the strap has silicone beading to stop it slipping on your helmet.

4. Tear off system

What sort of vision system do the goggles you're considering use?

Scott goggles have been around for a long time and Scott were actually the first company to make goggles specifically for motocross back in 1970.

Spy goggles have been in the motocross market for a few years now. Some of the biggest names in American motocross wear Spy goggles.

Smith goggles are very popular in Australia amongst enduro and cross country riders. I've never had much to do with them myself but because of their high quality roll off systems and innovations like fan forced goggle ventilation systems, Smith goggles have a big share among the top companies that manufacture dirt bike goggles.

Oakley designs and develops optical products. Motor sport specialty stores worldwide carry the Oakley eyewear. Oakley products are developed to suit all lifestyles. From world-class athletes, to everyday ordinary people, Oakley is dependable for all your eyewear needs. The facility utilizes the virtual world of CAD/CAM engineering. The prototype is tested using spectropho-tometers, impact accelerators, and environmental simulation chambers. Oakley uses some of the world's largest athletes to test their products. Motocross is one of the sports that relies on the Oakley goggle technology. The 3-D goggle design provides a precise fit. Oakley lenses are designed to maximize peripheral and downward vision.

EXO2 StormShield Heated Motorcycle Gloves

If you’re new to EXO2 equipment, these gloves include all the required wiring to connect to your bike’s power source and heat the gloves – the choice is yours. StormShield gloves are comprised of a leather upper surface and an Amara synthetic leather palm that’s broken up by Cordura on the fingers and gauntlet for flexibility. Also, you’ll notice PVC-molded knuckle protectors and extra Carbo-leather protectors in various places for durability and safety. The complete EXO2 kit comes with gloves, a basic wiring kit and installation instructions.

The upper shell includes armor in the knuckles and fingers for impact protection. Notice also the Cordura used on the inner and upper parts of the fingers. This arrangement permits excellent flexibility while sealing out the cold.

Both thumbs include a visor wiper. Secreted deep within each gauntlet is found the harness for connecting the EXO2 system to your motorcycle’s power source. If you already own EXO2 gear, like a heated vest, you’ve already got everything you need to wire up this gear!

Tourmaster Synergy Heated Vest

Executive summary about Tourmaster Synergy Heated Vest by Bill C

Segment-busting price includes the controller that should come with every other heated vest but doesn't; a wiring harness for the bike that should come with every other heated vest but doesn't; and the ability to connect to any of the other Synergy heated garments.

Can a heated vest be too hot? The new Tourmaster Synergy vest has it all -- modern carbon fiber heating elements instead of those old-fashioned wires; lots of elastic on the sides to keep the vest and the warmth close to the body; an included built-in waterproof controller and each Synergy heated clothing item comes with a motorcycle wiring harness.

The Synergy vest is thin, light and I honestly think it may actually put out too much heat, if that's possible! I wish I had the ability to switch the front heat on and off independently in the Tourmaster Synergy vest, because I think would solve the "too hot" problem. Heated clothing must be worn close to the body to do its thing, but not many heated vests fit correctly, nor do they incorporate elastic. I've been wearing the Tourmaster Synergy vest under a Joe Rocket Ballistic 7.0 jacket similar to the one that Rick reviewed recently.

The Ballistic 7.0 jacket uses some type of new fabric that keeps the jacket very lightweight and naturally flexible, so the thin and warm Synergy vest is a perfect match. Tourmaster recommends wearing the vest over a single shirt to keep the heat close to the body, so I wear the Synergy vest over a cotton T-shirt.

Each Synergy garment comes with its own controller, a wiring harness for the bike and the ability to connect with the other Tourmaster Synergy heated clothing items, which as of this writing include a heated jacket, heated gloves, heated pants and another style heated vest with a collar. Also note that accessory wiring harnesses are available from Tourmaster, including an extra temperature controller, extra V-split connectors, a BMW "Euro" style power adapter, a battery wiring harness and a leg band.

Each Synergy garment is supplied with a battery harness, electronic solid-state controller, and appropriate cabling to connect to other Synergy garments in a system; have a 3-year warranty. Old-fashioned wired garments are so yesterday, and how about having to buy a separate "Heat-Troller" control for 60-odd bucks? I can't imagine buying a heated garment and not having the ability to control the heat without also buying an optional controller. You want heat?

12V Heated Vest

Executive summary about a heated vest by Lea G. Cruz

If you love riding your motorcycle in mornings, then having a 12v heated vest will really come in handy. The vest is ideally worn over a shirt and then plugged into a 12v power source.

Specially designed heating panels replace coils to transmit heat to the areas of the body. Some people claim that you don't need to buy heated apparel just to feel warm since you can just wear layers of clothes. Unlike conventional clothes, the 12v heated vest has the ability to maintain the warmth needed by your body.

Before choosing a heated vest, it is good to shop around first and never buy on a whim. But, to make things easier, below are a few suggested things to look for.

1. Kind of fabric - The typical material that is used in vests is a nylon exterior with a polyester fill interior.

2. Type of heating element - different companies call their patented materials differently.

3. Price - This is something that most people put first in the list of things to consider. Typically, the vests cost around $100 to $ 200.

4. Temperature - The temperature level is also another thing to consider. After all you are buying a 12v heated vest for the warmth.

By maintaining your body temperature the 12v heated vests will prevent the freezing of your joints.

Differences Between Mesh and Textile Motorcycle Jackets

Executive summary about textile motorcycle jackets by Jen Hale

The motorcycle jacket is a standard piece of riding equipment. Mesh and the textile jackets provide different benefits in different riding conditions.

Textile motorcycle jackets provide great protection and can be worn in cooler weather. Unlike the mesh jacket, the textile jacket is waterproof, windproof and complete with armor and removable liner. This type of jacket can withstand a crash more efficiently than a mesh jacket.

Proper Wear of Motorcycle Patches

Executive summary about motorcycle patches by Phil Whitmer

Patches denote motorcycle club affiliation and delineate territorial boundaries. Off to the side is the MC patch, for motorcycle club. The front of the patch vest is personalized with small patches called badges conveying esoteric meanings to other club members.