Preparing Dirt Bike Plastics and Applying Motocross Graphics

So you've got a shiny new motocross graphics kit. Before applying your motocross graphics kit your dirt bike plastics do need to be in a reasonable condition. If there is still sticker residue on your plastics you can remove it with contact cleaner.

Once the residue's removed get some hot soapy water and scrub your dirt bike plastics like they've never been scrubbed before! Now the tricky bit, this will be a lot easier with two sets of hands so try to get someone to help you. With your heat gun first warm your dirt bike plastics up particularly if it's cold where you're working. With a large sticker like a radiator shroud, peel back a small section from the leading edge and fold the backing flat underneath. Now you can stick just the small section to the shroud and lay the sticker flat against the shroud to make sure everything lines up.

If it all looks good peel back a little more of the backing and keep working your way along making sure to squeeze out any air bubbles. Apply a bit of heat as you go, this softens the sticker and makes it easier to stick on curved sections of your plastics. Once the whole sticker is applied, squeeze out any air bubbles and give it a good rub down with a rag while applying a bit more heat, this makes sure it has stuck well. If you find at any point that you have an air bubble that you can't squeeze to the edge, just prick it with a pin and get rid of the air that way.

I once had some motocross graphics made by a guy whose favourite method of applying stickers was to get a spray bottle filled with some soapy water and lightly spray the surface you're applying the sticker to. He would then peel the backing off the sticker completely and put the sticker on. The soapy water is supposed to allow you to slide the sticker into position and then you squeegee the water out from underneath and let it dry.

A new set of dirt bike plastics and some motocross graphics are a cheap way of making your worn bike look almost brand new.

Advice On How To Make The Most Of Your 2010 KX250F

Use MXA’s mods as a guide.

1. Throttle tube: Kawasaki vulcanizes the rubber grip to the throttle body, so it takes the patience of a saint to completely remove the grip. We pitched the throttle tube/grip assembly and installed a $59.95 Sunline aluminum throttle tube. The metal tube is very durable and won’t grenade in the event of a crash.

2. Gearing: Kawasaki missed the boat with the KX250F gearing. In stock trim, the 48-tooth rear sprocket is too tall for all but expert riders. We opted for a Renthal 49-tooth rear sprocket in order to bridge the wide gaps between gears. While at it, we installed a Renthal standard-tooth countershaft sprocket and R1 Works chain.

3. Chain guide: Just like a wood chipper, the chain chews up the lower chain guide on the KX250F. The culprit is the chain guide itself, which doesn’t provide enough clearance for the rear sprocket. We utilized a flashy green T.M. Designworks chain guide.

4. Graphics: The stock KX250F graphics aren’t made out of rice paper, but they might as well be. The life span of the bland-looking stock graphics is as short as a mayfly’s. After a mere few hours of riding, we slapped on the very attractive DeCal Works T-7 semi-custom graphics kit.

5. Exhaust pipe: Does the 2010 KX250F really need an aftermarket exhaust system? No. We chose the $264.95 Pro Circuit T-4 exhaust for two reasons. It improves mid-to-top power and is quieter than the stock exhaust pipe from 5000 rpm on up. Call Pro Circuit at (951) 738-8050.

6. Rear axle nut: Cotter pins are a cheap and advantageous way to keep a bolt from backing out. With that said, the cotter pin found on the KX250F’s rear axle is a nuisance. We round-filed the cotter pin, removed the stock 32mm axle nut and replaced it with a self-locking Honda CRF250 nut. Problem solved.

7. Plastics: Every year, the KX250F is saddled with frail plastic. After just a few rides, we obliterated the radiator shrouds and bent the side panels. Instead of replacing the body work with stock plastic, we used more durable UFO plastic. The UFO kit comes with the front and rear fender, shrouds and side panels.

2010 Kawasaki KX250F Review

Executive summary about the 2010 KX250F by Jeff Buchanan

The new piston has a shorter skirt and narrower piston pin to reduce reciprocating mass, resulting in a quicker revving motor. The piston’s crown has been reshaped, adding 0.6mm in height to improve combustion with the cylinder height increased slightly to maintain a 13.2:1 compression ratio.

A new exhaust pipe – made from stainless steel for increased durability – is comprised of a longer head pipe married to a shorter mid-section to boost low-rpm performance. The technicians at Kawasaki boast that they’ve gotten the KX’s crankshaft balance closer to that of the factory racers, resulting in less vibration, which translates into smoother throttle response.

The 250 gets larger, wider radiators with a fin pitch designed to accumulate less mud. The increased rigidity of the new radiators allows the reinforcing brackets and support stays to be removed, resulting in reduced overall radiator weight.

By reducing the size of the steering stem – from 24mm to 23mm – rigidity is reduced, theoretically giving the bike a slightly lighter feel in handling. As for the basic numbers, seat height is 37.6 inches. Showa twin-chamber forks have titanium-coated lower tubes that reduce friction for smoother response. The 16-way compression and rebound damping adjustments augment 12.4 inches of fork travel. The damping settings are new, with less forward lean that lends more balance in the bike’s front to rear attitude. The rear shock possesses 13-way low-speed and stepless high-speed compression damping with 17-position rebound damping and fully adjustable spring preload, providing 12.2 inches of rear wheel travel.

Adding to the durability factor, the KX250F is fitted with a resin skid plate, rear brake caliper guard and longer-wearing chain guide. Black triple clamps paired with black alumite-coated wheels and Renthal aluminum bars help the production KX to closely mirror the factory race machines.

We enlisted the services of Intermediate-level racer Parker Jones to flog the Kawasaki around the private Castillo Ranch Motocross track in Central California. At 16 years-old, Jones stands 5-foot-11-inches tall and weighs 165 pounds.

Parker was pleasantly surprised by the KX’s power and tracktability that required him to shift his weight forward on the uphill section to keep the front end on the ground.

As for cornering, Parker said the bike worked equally well whether railing a berm or taking the point-and-shoot approach to a corner. The bike responded well to rider input, going where the rider wants it to without a fight.

Although the rear brake worked decently, Jones commented on squeaking noises on corner entry. The 2010 Kawasaki KX250F is a more refined, focused, and durable machine from its worthy predecessor.