Kawasaki GPZ1100

The Kawasaki GPZ1100 is a motorcycle that was manufactured by Kawasaki from 1981 to 1985. All models featured fuel injection and 1,089 cc engines.

The 1981 GPz1100 was the first 1,100 cc motorcycle released by Kawasaki. Rather than featuring carburetors, the B1 was fitted with electronic fuel injection (EFI) as used on the earlier 1980 Z1000G/H models. Suspension and braking was similar to earlier models; the front forks featured 38 mm tubes, the frame design, based on the z1000H and J models was made from larger diameter steel in the section between the steering head to rear of the tank. The engine output was increased by increasing the valve lift from 8.3 mm to 8.7 mm, and valve duration was increased from 280 degrees to 288 degrees to boost upper-end horsepower.

In 1983 a new GPz1100 design was released that featured Unitrack single suspension, anti-dive units on the forks and a major styling overhaul often called the "swish" look. Known as the ZX1100A1 model, the 1983 model featured a larger fairing, different instrumentation and a warning panel mounted on the redesigned petrol tank. The engine design changed in the 1983 model to use underbucket shims similar to the z650 and the camshaft duration was increased from 288 degrees to 300 degrees, and the valve lift increased from 8.7mm to 9.5mm. The power output was now claimed to be 120 bhp at 8,750 rpm. This model was released in a Red paint scheme with Blue and Silver stripes. Fundamentally the engine was still the same as earlier air-cooled engines.

The 1984 model deviated little from the 1983 model but featured a new paint scheme called "Galaxy Silver"; the original Firecracker Red scheme was still available. All specifications from previous models were retained.

In 1995, Kawasaki re-released the GPz brand, basing the motor on the ZX-9R/ZX-10/ZX-11/ZZR-1100 water-cooled engines. There is no similarity between the later models and any earlier models.

Treatments And Colors of Motorcycle Goggles

Motorcycle goggles are one type of riding glasses which are needed while riding a motorcycle. This article states some aspects of riding glasses, especially motorcycle goggles. Scratch resistant coating can protect your goggles from most scratch. Polarizing lens is also applied to riding glasses. Anti-fog coating on motorcycle goggles is a good idea and works well in fogging condition. Transitional lenses on motorcycle goggles work by reading the UV light and adjusting the lens color in order to provide more shading in bright conditions. Real transitional lenses only available on high end priced riding glasses.

Cruiser Motorcycle Goggles

Cruiser motorcycles goggles are an often overlooked piece of safety kit, preventing loss of vision at high speed due to airborne debris impact. Protecting many lives by avoiding what might be incapacitating catastrophes; proper cruiser motorcycles goggles can make the difference.

The lenses for cruiser motorcycles goggles are no longer constructed from glass but shatterproof materials making them much more strong. Many cruiser motorcycles goggles are treated with a substance that cuts out the danger of fogging issues. Numerous riders find cruiser motorcycles goggles for their particular safety requirements and their aesthetic preferences.

Motorcycle Gloves Review

Gloves can protect your hands. Wearing a pair of gloves on the hands while going for a ride on the motorcycle is extreme, important. Gloves help to protect the wearer not only from cold and heat but also help to protect the hands against any damage due to fiction and falls while riding a motorcycle. This Glove Guide shows you how to select quality Gloves.

Motorcycle gloves come in different varieties and are widely available in the sports shops and even on the internet. They are:

1. Motorcycle summer gloves, are often no more that thin leather gloves without a lining and hardly any water resistance.

2. Motorcycle fingerless gloves. There are two types, with and without fingers.

3. Motorcycle medium weight gloves, is between summer and winter gloves and most riders have these.

4. Motorcycle winter gloves. Much thicker than medium weight gloves.

5. Motorcycle rain gloves. Often no more than a plastic covering to keep the rain out. However rain gloves are often quite cheap and easy to carry along.

Motorcycle gloves review tips & checks:

1. Comfort. A motorcycle glove should be the right size. Big gloves will start to wrap around the bar.

2. Construction. Most gloves are ergonomically formed. Furthermore a glove should have reinforcements such as extra padding on the knuckles and palms.

3. Lining. You can get glove liners separate which can be an extra advantage if you want to warm up your medium weight gloves, for example.

4. Extensions. Often summer gloves don't have them but all others do.

5. Water resistant. Should gloves be water resistant? You pay a bit more but it saves you buying rain mc gloves. Watch for this benefit in gloves.

6. If your gloves are well waterproofed you don't need rain gloves.

7. Use a motorcycle glove chart size so you can check which size you need.

8. Check out how the glove is stitched together.

Gloves are designed for a particular hand size. A wrist strap makes sure the glove holds its ergonomically formed design.

Used Motorcycle Buying Checklist

Executive summary about a motorcycle buying checklist by Randy Moser

If you are a beginning rider, however, you probably should avoid heavy machines. Motorcycle manufacturers produce a wide range of motorcycles in different styles to accommodate beginning riders, and you shouldn’t feel any stigma when selecting a machine that fits your experience level. Honda, Suzuki, Kawasaki and Yamaha all produce cruisers, sport bikes, standards and dual-sport machines below 500 cc. However, most touring bikes, such as the Honda Goldwing, are far too heavy for new riders and many sport bikes are just too powerful for those new to the sport.

In addition, sport bikes and dual-sport machines will generally be quite tall. Both of these types of bikes require considerable ground clearance. Sport bikes accomplish this by using rear-set controls while dual-sport motorcycles are often very tall machines. Sport bikes perform better in curves and are usually faster; touring machines are more comfortable for highway miles; and dual-sports are good if you spend as much time off road as on. Some motorcycles will handle abuse better than others, but it is never a good idea to buy a bike that hasn’t been properly cared for.

The following are some signs of neglect: The bike is improperly stored; the exhaust rusted and the tires have dry rot; the bike is not currently inspected and on the road. Motorcycles do not get ridden as many miles as automobiles, so don’t assume a bike has low miles just because it has fewer miles than your car.

Visually inspect the bike and demand a test ride. Basic checklist:

1. Brakes:

a. Pads: Inspect pads for glazing.

b. Hoses: Inspect hoses for crimps, cracks or other signs of defects.

c. Rotor: The bike will vibrate during the driving test if the rotor(s) are warped.

2. Chain: Check chain adjustment for stretch.

3. Electrical:

a. Lights: Check that all lights are equally bright.

b. Headlight: Check hi / low settings. Does the headlight get brighter as the bike’s raced? This is a sign of a bad voltage regulator.

c. Switchgears: Inspect for damage and check controls.

4. Engine:

a. Oil: Is the engine oil dark or gritty?

b. Valves: Rev the engine and listen for valve clutter. Alternatively check engine compression, if you have a tester.

c. Coolant: Check coolant, if applicable, and ask when it was changed last.

5. Exhaust:

a. Discoloration: If the pipes are discolored the bike is probably improperly jetted.

b. Backpressure: Put your hands over both exhaust openings. Do they have the same amount of pressure? If not one cylinder bank isn’t firing.

6. Suspension: If the bike has air caps, check the pressure in the forks.

7. Wheels: If the tires are only worn in the center, the bike has likely been driven on the highway; if they are worn all the way to the edges it has been ridden in the corners.

Motorcycle Trip Packing Checklist

Seasoned riders often prepare a motorcycle trip packing checklist in order to avoid arriving on location without all those items that make a trip not only enjoyable but easy logistically. The items are:

1. Spare inner tube

2. Tire patch kit

3. Portable tire pump

4. Spare clutch cable

5. Spark plug

6. Chain links

7. Chain oil

8. Bottle of spare petrol

9. Small tool kit

10. Rain gear

11. Long sleeved shirts and long pants

12. Bungee cords

13. Compass

14. Watch

15. Jackknife

16. Tapes

17. Contact details of motorcycle rental company

18. Insurance papers

19. Matches

20. Phone list

21. Cooking equipment

22. Toilet papers.